Sydney is a great city. There's amazing food, terrific shopping, tons for the kids to do, but Australia is a big country, and Sydney is only a very small part of that. As an Oceanographer, most of my adult life was spent secretly planning my escape to the Great Barrier Reef, so after our enjoyable stent in Sydney, we flew north to Queensland. Not just a little more north, but way, way far north. The area is actually known as "Far North Queensland," because you physically can't go much farther north than that.
Port Douglas, Australia
Our family lived in Port Douglas, a sleepy little fishing village that was just beginning to find itself between the mangroves and the beach. Port Douglas is a town of approximately 4000 people, depending on the tide and which pubs are open in town. Port Douglas is located 130 km (80 miles) north of Cairns, and 200 km (124 miles) south of Cooktown. Getting to Port Douglas requires that one drives along a stunningly beautiful curvy road with rocky cliffs and waterfalls on one side of you, while a sheer drop down to the Coral Sea on the other side will provide approximately one hour of terrifying, palm sweating nervousness. Don't take your eyes off the road, no matter what.
We rented a townhouse nestled back inside the Rainforest, just close enough to the Macrossan Street shops and restaurants to walk for groceries and entertainment, but far enough away so that the frogs sang us to sleep every night, and the birds woke us up every morning. Life moves much slower in Port Douglas. It has to. It is physically not possible to move your body quickly when it's that hot and humid.
Port Douglas happens to be one of the best places to access the Great Barrier Reef on the east coast of mainland Australia. Local underwater photographers and diving outfitters abound on every corner, making it easy to plan an excursion at any time. There was only one gaping hole in our plan to spend time on the Great Barrier Reef: the rainy season. Summer in Far North Queensland isn't just a little wet. The rainy season involves torrential downpours that seem to never end, where rivers burst their banks regularly, roads wash out, and the winds are unrelenting. If you're a diver, you know what that means. Wind is the enemy.
Seeing the Great Barrier Reef
Ten days before leaving Queensland we got our first chance to go out on a boat. We boarded early Friday morning, preparing for a rough ride. The boat was enormous, yet for several hours to the outer reef the wind and the waves rocked it from side to side like a flimsy plastic toy, and everyone was sick. I debated whether or not to put Ashleigh in the water at all, but I decided I was not leaving without showing her the Great Barrier Reef. The 200 yard swim from the back of the boat to the edge of the reef with a four-year-old in tow was difficult to say the least, but I will never forget the excitement and the look in Ashleigh's eyes when we reached the edge of the reef. There were clown fish housed in beautiful anemones that glowed blue, pink, and green despite the small amounts of sunlight shining through. We saw corals in every color, hue, and shape. Angelfish, nudibranchs, feather stars, lion fish, giant clams, and sea fans that were so large they seemed to reach across the top of the reef to touch us. In my opinion, it was entirely worth the pain and frustration to get there, and Ashleigh did not want to get back in the boat.
Seeing the Great Barrier Reef with your kids is an experience without comparison. Whether you would like to scuba dive or snorkel, there are literally thousands of fantastic sites along 1250 miles of barrier reefs and coral cays where you can introduce your children to a new world. A place like no other they've ever seen. Diving operators are generally very kid-friendly and provide opportunities for your children to be involved throughout the day, not only keeping them entertained, but providing hands-on education in an un-rivalled environment. Check with your chosen dive operator regarding age limits for specific trips. In general, if your child can swim and will wear a mask and snorkel I highly recommend bringing them along for the fun. You won't regret it.
Traveling to Australia?
If you have an interest in taking your family to the Great Barrier Reef, plan to go during the Australian winter (May through September) to avoid the rainy season and the Irukandji jellyfish. Dive operators provide stinger suits for protection throughout the year, but it should be noted that the majority of the jellyfish biomass congregates in inland waters. Toward the end of March the weather begins to calm in Queensland. It was at that point that we were finally able to make a few great dives on the outer reefs and see how magnificent the diving in the Coral Sea truly is.
Port Douglas has a fantastic beach, Four Mile Beach, that is ideal for all ages. During the winter, water play is very inviting. During the summer a swimming net is set up to allow for safe swimming in a small area, due to the presence of the Irukandji jellyfish. There are plenty of great shops, restaurants, and scenic beach-side playgrounds to keep your family busy. Don't miss the Port Douglas Farmer's Market every Sunday from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
If you're like me, and prefer a personal touch to your diving, contact Poseidon Cruises. They can provide dive guides who are very experienced, truly know the flora and fauna of the reef, and are available to make it specialized to your needs. They also participate in research activities on the reef, helping local scientists by collecting data and observations, as well as encouraging divers to respect and protect the reef at all times.
*Many thanks to David Miller from Oak Beach Productions for all the help in and out of the water. It couldn't have been done with you.
April Christine - After several years of nearly perpetual travel, the author now lives in North Carolina with her husband and their two children. Growing ...
